84 RM 250 E Ground UP Full Restoration

Discussion in 'Suzuki' started by Moto7man, Mar 16, 2018.

  1. Moto7man

    Moto7man A level Member
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    Well, I got my OEM Suzuki Service Manual last night and I was surprised too. There was a detailed description of the primary gear removal with a photo. It is a left hand thread. I reversed the direction on my impact wrench, put on a 19mm socket and "bang' the nut came off in less than a second.[​IMG]

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  2. Hawaiidirtrider

    Hawaiidirtrider Major Contributor!

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    Damn.. good thing you got that manual!!!!
     
  3. Moto7man

    Moto7man A level Member
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    Oh yeah, that book saved a bunch of trouble!
     
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  4. Moto7man

    Moto7man A level Member
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    ell, I got my OEM Suzuki Service Manual last night and I was surprised too. There was a detailed description of the primary gear removal with a photo. It is a left hand thread. I reversed the direction on my impact wrench, put on a 19mm socket and "bang' the nut came off in less than a second.[​IMG]
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    Before you touch anything have one of these.This is the Genuine Suzuki manual and I was skeptical when I bought it. Its a small sized book, but it actually is a shop manual with step by step pictures on splitting the cases and all other procedures.
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    I used a Tusk case splitter, it works really well. I just made sure the splitter was level with the cases and I slowly pulled them apart. I had to loosen the splitter a few times to make sure the cases came apart evenly.
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    Here is the inside. No damage from failed components etc, just damage from neglect. Check out the water line on the crank and the case.
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    The Transmission looked just fine, all the cogs were good and the bearings are fine.
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    I had to wait until my puller arrived to remove the flywheel. I have six flywheel puller none were the right type. I bought a round puller but it was too wide to line up to the two holes on the flywheel. Those two holes are 29mm apart so I searched for a puller that would work.
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    Ok this is the puller that works for the 84 RM 250 E. It is a oem puller for a KTM 50 SR/JR Part Number 59029021044 believe it or not...lol....
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    Here it is mounted up. Its made much better than the other pullers that I have seen and the 3 sets of bolts are much higher quality. This puller width is about 28mm min and adjusts to a much larger width as well. This puller worked really well, I think a cheaper puller would have broken taking off this flywheel. Good tool, worth the money.
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    I pressed the crank out of the case without any problem.Here is what it looked like.The rod looks like new but the lower rod bearing is seized with rust.I am going to send the crank to the machine shop for a beadblast, rebuild and balance.
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  5. Moto7man

    Moto7man A level Member
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    Both main bearings are completely seized with rust. Some sludge in the bottom of the cases but the bike had never been run with the old oil,so the transmission gears, forks and bearings were clean.The cases should clean up well.
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    Here is where we are at the moment. I going to have the cases beadblasted and refinished. The original motor color is black. Which coating and color should we use? What does everyone think?[​IMG]
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    I am trying to match up a color code to powdercoat my frame.

    Here is a shot of the frame, however most of the frame color is darker than the stock color because someone painted a darker blue on parts of the frame with a brush.(a brush, I kid you not.)
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    After checking several colors, I found this RAL CODE 5015 which is a 79 Bultaco Color.

    http://www.ralcolor.com/

    Does this look close to the original Suzuki color?
     
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  6. Moto7man

    Moto7man A level Member
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    I am trying to match up a color code to powdercoat my frame.

    Here is a shot of the frame, however most of the frame color is darker than the stock color because someone painted a darker blue on parts of the frame with a brush.(a brush, I kid you not.)
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    After checking several colors, I found this RAL CODE 5015 which is a 79 Bultaco Color.

    http://www.ralcolor.com/

    Does this look close to the original Suzuki color?

    I cleaned the rust out of the barrel with a scotchbrite pad. It doesn't look took bad but there is some pitting in the bottom 1/4 of the barrel. Will a hone take this out this pitting or do we need to bore the liner to .25 over to the 1st oversize piston?
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    Also, the piston only has an arrow on top (to be installed point to the exhaust port) and a number "3" stamped inside the skirt. I took a measurement of the piston and it was 69.900 which is close to the service limit for a std bore piston and the ring end gap was right at the the .85 ring end gap service limit.

    * Does the #3 on the piston mean it is a std size piston within the production limits, like A;B;C marked pistons for niksail cylinders or is it something else?
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    it just has the "arrow" that goes in the direction of the exhaust port. Here is a photo.
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    Before cleanup
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  7. Moto7man

    Moto7man A level Member
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    What kind of puller do I need to remove this clutch shaft and bearing?


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  8. Moto7man

    Moto7man A level Member
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    I removed the rear shock, swingarm and Floater Link last Saturday.

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  9. Hawaiidirtrider

    Hawaiidirtrider Major Contributor!

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    Do you have a source for new parts for this bike? It must be hard to find.. I’m guessing though.
     
  10. Hawaiidirtrider

    Hawaiidirtrider Major Contributor!

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  11. Hawaiidirtrider

    Hawaiidirtrider Major Contributor!

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    You’re doing a great job!!! Bike is coming along well!!
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2018
  12. Moto7man

    Moto7man A level Member
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  13. Moto7man

    Moto7man A level Member
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    Sorry for the delay but I was super busy at work this week.

    I pulled off the radiators, coil, CDI and the front suspension. The rads look really good, I am going to have the rads and the rad guards anodized. The bike still had the stock handle bars but they had been tweaked hard and were not usable, I put them in the circular file.
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    Upper triple clamp was a ball bearing not a tampered bearing and it was destroyed, ball bearings everywhere and part of the cage stuck in the upper race.

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    Note the ball bearings laying on top of the lower tapered bearing.
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  14. Moto7man

    Moto7man A level Member
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    Coil and shots of the races.
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    Forks look great.
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    Here is a shot of the aluminum full floating rear brake arm for the rear drum brake.
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  15. Moto7man

    Moto7man A level Member
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    Next I started on the wheels.
    Here is the rear wheel.
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    Here is the front.

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    Here is something you don't see anymore. Dual shoe front brake with a magnesium backing plate.[​IMG]
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    Upper and lower alignment marks for the brake arms.
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  16. Moto7man

    Moto7man A level Member
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    These were the original wheels. The spokes on both wheels were completely seized from rust and the rear rim had a crack.I will be ordering a new set of excel rims with Buchanan spokes and tubliss with new Metzeler Unicross tires.

    This crack is probably repairable.
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    Front rim looks great.
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    Both hubs almost ready for powdercoat.
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  17. Moto7man

    Moto7man A level Member
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    If you haven't seen a full floater rear suspension then this is what it looks like. I raced one of these bikes in the mid 80s for a couple of races. The Hondas had more power, but floater suspension was vastly superior to everything else.

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  18. Moto7man

    Moto7man A level Member
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    I removed the footpegs and brake pedal from the frame. I measured the footpegs' they are around 30mm or about have the size of the foot pegs on my Honda and GasGas. Someone posted on another forum that 96-2002 rm 250 foot pegs will bolt right up if you drill out the holes on the frame just a little for the bigger pins.Does anyone know if this is true?

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    34 year old brake pedal doesn't look too bad....

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    As of this morning here is where we are on the build.Suspension will be boxed up to go to Drew Smith at Works Enduro Rider for full rebuild. Every thing else will be going to powdercoating / anodizing or will be replaced with new oem Suzuki parts. Cylinder and head will be going to Procircuit for boring and porting. I will try to match up a new Rekluse Clutch Basket and Rekluse Auto Clutch. I have an Ohlins SD 571 steering dampner but I'm not sure that I can adapt it to this model, we will see.
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  19. Hawaiidirtrider

    Hawaiidirtrider Major Contributor!

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    It's coming along..!!!
     
  20. Moto7man

    Moto7man A level Member
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    Yes, step by step.........:D:D:D:D
     
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